Phagshapa

If using dried fiddlehead ferns (ningro), soak them in warm water for 30 minutes until rehydrated. Drain and squeeze out excess water. If using fresh spinach, wash and roughly chop.

Soak the dried red chillies in warm water for 10 minutes to soften. Drain and roughly chop, keeping the seeds for heat.

In a heavy-bottomed pot or wok, add the pork belly strips without any oil — the pork has enough fat to render on its own. Cook over medium-high heat for 5–6 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the fat renders and the pork begins to brown.

Add the sliced onion, julienned ginger, and sliced garlic to the rendered pork fat. Stir-fry for 4–5 minutes until the onion softens and turns translucent.

Add the soaked and chopped dried red chillies. Stir well and cook for 2 minutes.

Add the sliced white radish and stir to combine with the pork and aromatics. The radish will absorb the pork fat and become flavourful.

Add 300 ml water and season with salt. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to medium-low.

Cover and simmer for 20–25 minutes until the pork is tender and the radish is cooked through but still holds its shape.

Add the rehydrated fiddlehead ferns (or spinach) and Sichuan pepper (timur). Stir well and cook uncovered for 5 minutes. The Sichuan pepper adds the characteristic numbing, citrusy note of Sikkimese cuisine.

Taste and adjust salt. The dish should have a rich, slightly spicy broth with tender pork and vegetables. Serve hot with steamed rice.