Khaar

Prepare the khar filtrate if not using store-bought: burn dried banana peels until they become ash, then filter the ash through a cloth with water to collect the alkaline liquid (khar). Set aside.

Peel and cube the raw papaya into 2 cm pieces. Rinse well.

Heat mustard oil in a kadai over medium-high heat until it reaches smoking point, then reduce to medium.

Add mustard seeds and dried red chillies. Let them splutter for 30 seconds.

Add sliced onions and sauté for 3–4 minutes until translucent.

Add grated ginger and green chillies. Stir for 1 minute.

Add the raw papaya cubes and turmeric powder. Toss to coat.

Add water and a pinch of salt. Cover and cook on medium heat for 10–12 minutes until the papaya is tender.

Once the papaya is cooked, reduce heat to low and slowly pour in the khar filtrate. Stir gently.

Simmer uncovered for 3–4 minutes. The khar will give the dish a distinctive alkaline, slightly soapy flavor that is characteristic of Assamese cuisine.

Taste and adjust salt. Serve hot as the first course of an Assamese meal with steamed rice.